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  #21 (permalink)   Top
Old 17th October 2008, 09:54 PM
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I just found this, it should help.

Driverheaven Guides: testing your psu with a multimeter
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Old 18th October 2008, 09:01 AM
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I'll stick with my earlier advice and say bin the thing - unless of course this is now a learning process!
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Old 18th October 2008, 11:55 AM
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Thing is Albert, Everest home was only written for 32bit cpu based systems. P4's and socket 462's. With the more modern socket types it seems to have a problem, same goes with speedfan too.
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Old 18th October 2008, 06:43 PM
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Tell ya what, today isn't a taking-PC-to-bits sort of day because I'm knackered from work but I'll do it tomorrow afternoon while I'm free
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Old 19th October 2008, 10:20 AM
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As part of the take it to bits process, try the voltage test with all the drives and peripherals disconnected to see if one of them is causing this?
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Old 19th October 2008, 11:13 AM
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Will do mate, I'm going to print this thread off now and then test it after lunch
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  #27 (permalink)   Top
Old 19th October 2008, 11:22 AM
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I truly believe all the voltages will be fine and that the software is wrong.
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Old 19th October 2008, 11:40 AM
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We wait with bated breath, eyes crossed with anticipation. You are not alone young Daveskater! You may yet be the forum Hero!
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Old 19th October 2008, 02:02 PM
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Well chaps, I have a plot twist for you.

There is no -5V wire. It is not there whatsoever. The only white wires in my whole PC are the one coming from my Fan Mate 2, and ones going to some temp sensors that came with my case.

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Old 19th October 2008, 05:17 PM
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That's why it is reported wrongly then.
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Old 19th October 2008, 07:44 PM
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Yup, will it all be alright as it is though, or do you reckon it's a one off thing and I should get the PSU replaced?
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Old 19th October 2008, 08:57 PM
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I am sure you will be fine mate.
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  #33 (permalink)   Top
Old 19th October 2008, 09:19 PM
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Cool Thanks a lot for your help mate.

One quick thing though, seeing as I didn't get to find out , when you short the wires over to start the PSU up, is it literally for a second or two or do you have to leave it there?

If it's anything like a starter motor on our Isuzu engines, if you leave the thing shorting it out on there for too long, it will fuse itself to the contacts
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Old 19th October 2008, 09:58 PM
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Yup, it has to be shorted to keep the psu on, opened to switck it back off.
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Old 19th October 2008, 10:01 PM
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Cool mate, cheers
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  #36 (permalink)   Top
Old 20th October 2008, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveskater View Post
Yup, will it all be alright as it is though, or do you reckon it's a one off thing and I should get the PSU replaced?
On the newer ATX2 PSUs the -5 white wire is not there, ATX2 PSUs are the ones with 24pin molex connectors
refer to the pinout diagram I posted earlier (post #11) and also read the ATX PSU form factor PDF file I linked to in post #13 - this one as it is the spec for ATX2 PSUs
ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide v2.2

So the answer to your question is: No, there is NO need to replace your PSU, it is just fine and conforms to the ATX2 specifications.



Why is it that I always end up stabbing myself with the probes of my DMM
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Old 20th October 2008, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klunk View Post


Why is it that I always end up stabbing myself with the probes of my DMM
One hand one job - golden rule! Cannot stab yourself that way - and besides, maybe you are being just a tad too agressive with the things!
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  #38 (permalink)   Top
Old 20th October 2008, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klunk View Post
So the answer to your question is: No, there is NO need to replace your PSU, it is just fine and conforms to the ATX2 specifications.
Cheers, that kind of crossed my mind but I don't know why I didn't look into it It has a 20+4 connector so the extra 4 you can take off, but it comes with the extra 4 clipped on.
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Why is it that I always end up stabbing myself with the probes of my DMM
I used to do that all the time as well But now the ends are a bit worn down because of being used on slightly rough surfaces
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